If you’re looking for a gadget with promises of quick fixes, then I am not the trainer for you. I primarily use a double jointed snaffle, but always some sort of snaffle. For a class, I will ride my western horses in a low ported,(or whatever fits their mouth best, but I find this bit to be the easier transition), long shank curb. I only ride in curbs if the horse is fully trained on the riders seat, leg, and neck rein aids. All of my horses go in a halter, and I believe your horse can too.

I’m here to bring back the balanced horse. The horse with a strong back, straight legs, and soft, flexible neck and jaw. The horse who chews and swallows, who’s lips dance in communication, instead of gaping in pain. The horse who is free to lick and chew, stretch downwards into the hand, and find relaxation in their work. Every buck that happens in training, whether it be a first saddling to a first ride shouldn’t be from fear. I believe that every horse, with the proper understanding of what we are asking of them, can have a buck free relationship.

I use many methods in my training, mixed and match for each horse depending on their needs and discipline. But they can be broken down to 2 main pillars

-R+ (treat training)

Provides an immediate positive association with whatever task assigned. Helps ensure horses understand what is being asked of them, in a way that makes sense to a horse.

-Correct Classical Dressage

Poll should be the highest point, with a swinging back and hind legs should reach underneath, achieving over-stride. the horse should be light in the bridle and responsive to seat and leg cues. When trained with true classic dressage methods, a horse will respond off of seat and leg cues, the bit should only be held in light contact and used in the lightest of touches, like holding a sandwich. if you apply too much pressure, everything falls apart.